JFW 2014: ESMOD Jakarta Showcases Graduate Success
I think of all the design schools that held shows at Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW), the one school that “gets” ready-to-wear the most is ESMOD Jakarta. This is the fifth year that the international fashion university group has participated in JFW, and for good reason too: successful graduates of this school include Major Minor‘s Ambar Pratiwi and Inneke Margarethe, Mel Ahyar, and Jeffry Tan. The ESMOD Jakarta show at JFW highlighted the latest work of five young alumni who have already made a name for themselves in the business by establishing fashion lines of their own, so it was not only a good opportunity for the school to show off the thriving talent that it trains, but for us to also check out what has been prepared for the consumer in the fashion season to come.
Perhaps a trademark of ESMOD Jakarta graduates is the designers’ propensity and mastery over use flowy, featherweight materials.The fresh colors and light fabrics in this collection are great for traveling, and remind me a little of the Ardistia New York Resort/SS ’14 show. Designer Shahnaz Soraya graduated in 2010 and for this collection, titled Pop Romance, she was actually inspired by the weird unpredictable weather in Jakarta that has been shifting between rain and heat. Now that it’s been mentioned, this collection really does look great for rain or shine.
Prints that depict outer space have been a staple of indie/hipster fashion for the past couple of years now, and it doesn’t look like it has plans of stopping anytime soon. Se… by Sere Marini Simanjuntak has decided to go on that route by implementing the outer space pattern against basic black pieces. The Construction Dream collection was inspired by a vision in a dream, which the designer felt was the right time for freeind minds, and she hopes to encourage that through this collection. Established in 2009, these pieces are available at The Goods Dept., Alun-Alun, and Metro.
Vy by Silvy Dwianti
This label has only been around since 2012, but already designer Silvy Dwianti keeps her fans on tenterhooks by making every new collection starkly different from the previous one. Where her SS ’13 collection was dominated by bright neons and patterns of all sorts — stripes, houndstooth, and plaid — this latest collection, titled City In The Galaxy, sees simple silver and gray prints on black and white basics. Panels of sheer fabrics appear every now and then too to prevent entire looks from being weighed down by heavy blacks and grays. The straight lines, grayscale, and simple silhouette are a far cry from her previous collections; the variety so far is great and I really hope she keeps up the habit of shaking up looks every season and not fall into the habit of sticking to an aesthetic she is comfortable with, something that Deszell pointed out is the wont of some new designers.