JFW 2013; Architectural Play from Auguste Soesastro & Oscar Lawalata
Auguste Soesastro and Oscar Lawalata are both young, but both are individuals to be reckoned with when it comes to fashion and renowned for their couture collection. The collections from the two of them, from season to season, are always known for the craftsmanship and details. They take the same approach when they designed their ready-to-wear collection that falls under the luxury side of the ready-to-wear spectrum.
With his ready-to-wear label Kromo, Auguste applies the same technique in pattern making as he does with his couture work. Despite sticking with plain materials, no graphic whatsoever, his signature shines through. You’ll know from the fit, the slouch and the movement of the pieces that the design is his. Don’t expect to see curves and fitted clothing in Auguste’s collection, as always, his work is loose and very sleek and structured. Despite being loosely fitted, his pieces complement women’s body well. It’s always a challenge to look elegant and chic with minimalism, but Auguste always manages to pull it off brilliantly. The background of the fashion show that displays the image of the docking port, moving from the morning scene until the sunset shows the inspiration of this season’s collection, especially the colour palette. Instead of taking the usual blue colour, he chooses the whole scenery above the ground upon seeing the sea, a combination of fiery orange and black when the sun starts to set on the horizon.
Oscar is no different. You see the same fine details in his Mongoloid brand that is dedicated to a great degree of construction of pattern and architectural play in creating an outfit. His inspiration was art deco and you see vividly the geometric touch that he translated into how the dresses are constructed. It’s like a small puzzle put together to form an outfit. What fascinated me was how the dress still able to move so fluidly despite the different components. Is it just me, or Oscar’s outfit silhouette always look billowy and lady-like?
Oh, and I love how Oscar never fails to give us a complete type of accessories for his collection-starting from the beautiful rippling hat, to the footwear, as well as the accessories. It’s his attention to detail that completes the whole image for the collection.
I wish that in the future, we’ll see more Indonesian designers that are on the same calibre as these two. I can’t wait for next year’s JFW collections from these two designers.