It seemed that both Soko Wiyanto and Yogie Pratama couldn’t get enough of fierce drama for their Diagramma show in this year’s Jakarta Fashion Week.
Diagramma was a collaborative haute couture show of two uprising designers, Soko Wiyanto and Yogie Pratama. Yogie flaunted his collection entitled “Drama” that took inspiration from 1950s fashion houses, while Soko presented his collection, “She La Vi” (from c’est la vie?) that featured butterflies as a theme—both literally and figuratively.
It’s definitely a no-brainer that femininity, grace, and glamour (pumped up to the maximum volume!) are what tied them together in this collaborative work. Nevertheless, each Soko and Yogie tried to be distinct from one another with their own themes and characteristics.
Yogie Pratama started his presentation with short, high waisted cocktail dresses. The first part was the product of his collaboration with Pesona Batik Kudus, resulting in batik dresses wrapped in black tulle, accentuated with origami and ruffles.
Then came the girlish, playful taffeta dresses in bright colors.
But Yogie wasn’t done with the short dresses. He then presented short cocktail dresses with over-the-top feminine elements—lace, big bows, sequins, and puffy tulle skirt—definitely with hits-and-misses.
He also explored figure-hugging, straight-line evening dresses that highlighted the high waist and chest—an obvious characteristic from the ‘50s—with cheongsam collars and tassels, his favorite elements throughout the collection.
However, the ‘drama’ in Yogie’s “Drama” collection actually begun when he started to send the models down the runway in old-Hollywood evening dresses with dramatic trains and voluminous skirts.
“Drama” was closed with a bridal dress that still clung ever so strongly to the 1950s feel with the retro headpiece and the squared off-shoulder.
If Yogie gave us a crescendo performance—started from simpler pieces, then worked his way up to the most powerful ones—Soko basically punched everyone with his bolder than bold pieces from the start.
Another distinction from the previous collection: while Yogie’s collection revolved around slim silhouettes that were thrown with lots of sequins and whatnots, Soko embraced solid colored big dresses with strong on fabric detailing.
He opened the She La Vi with all red short dresses with heavily accentuated skirts.
Then there were earth-colored dresses adorned with gold sequins.
These earth colored dresses were transitions to Soko’s blacks, which featured some of his few lace works in the collection.
Dramatic laces brought us even more dramatic ball gowns in all red or black, with ruffles, butterfly appliqués, big bows, drapes and crisp pleats that have origami feel. This origami pleats was further emphasized on the Queen Elizabeth-collar-inspired accents, placed on many parts of the gowns.
And as with Yogie, Soko closed his presentation with an elaborate wedding gown.
Diagramma was an intensely daring and ambitious work for uprising designers such as Yogie Pratama and Soko Wiyanto. I certainly appreciated the effort to be elaborate, but one can consider Diagramma’s femininity was too much. Even in “She La Vi'”s case, one may only drown in volume, volume, and more volume, without feeling the aesthetics. All in all, it came down to the question: was the drama worth it?
Soko Wiyanto is a graduate of Arva School of Fashion Surabaya, and La Salle Jakarta, while Yogie Pratama is an alumnus of ESMOD Jakarta and Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.