JFW 09/10 – Day 5: Evening Through Late Nite Shows

Day Five, Jakarta Fashion Week

Hutama Adhi, Carmanita and Stephanus Hamy presented their collections in the early evening of Day Five of Jakarta Fashion Week.

Hutama Adhi sent down georgeous dresses, and geogeous models, down the runway in sensuous drapery, flowy pants and mouth-watering colors. Yet one can not deny that these clothes need a certain figure; despite it’s theme of Easy Femininity, these are probably the hardest collection to work with in real life.

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Carmanita’s designs were my second favorite look of the day. Drawing inspiration from origami, the collection show a slim silhouette in flowy fabrics and some nifty, geometrical layering. I can see this collection translating well from the workplace (really! at least some of the tops), tea, arisan, even the beach. I also want that tote bag the girls carried; it’s clear plastic with a interesting, very Indonesian-looking, cloth bag inside.

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Amongst a sea of looks, it’s easy to be mind-boggled, but try as I might, I could not remember Stephanus Hamy’s collection, and my notes make no sense as it only says “jewel tones”.  As I looked over the photos, I could not remember seeing these clothes, yet they are a beautiful play on colors, with jewel tones intermixed with an earthy palette. I was probably intoxicated by the music—it was Sundanese very loud, but nice, percussion music (that I remember).

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Her last name may have changed a few during her career, but Ghea is one of a few designers who have consistently drawn on Indonesian traditional cloths for her inspiration. This time, the dress of the Javanese aristocracy is her muse, rendered into velvet and rich gold motifs of the collection. I felt a sense of déjà vu as models came down the runway in short, black, velvet jackets, as if taking me back in time to…the ‘80s, perhaps? This time, however, the familiar silhouette is paired with velvet corset-belts and richly decorated leggings, creating a look that’s opulent, yet youthful.

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Kanaya Tabita could not attend the show herself, as she’s overseas promoting Indonesian designs (in Brazil? Russia? I got conflicting information). But her collection is so typical of Kanaya—elegant, feminine, yet with a bit of edge and risk—that it’s as if she’s there all along. The theme, Rockerysistah, while a bit awkward, does reflect what’s in the collection: rocker chic and some crocheted bits.  I love the crystal embellishments, bright magenta/lilac barrets and head wraps (crocheted) and the wearing of a single glove. The girls were also sent down the runway with shoes half unbuckled, zippers undone, and stockings ripped. These clothes are meant for drama!

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The last session of the day featured designs by Valentino and Era Soekamto. After the tough ladies of Rockerysistah, Valentino’s clothes do look like they came out of a fairy tale. The theme is Holy Love, with the requisite white combined with off-white and earthy colors for brides and brides-to-be (and sparse pieces for the groom). The ruffles in this collection are intricate and delicate, and Valentino added splendor to the bride with a large, nay, huge, cape which, in the hand of less experienced model than Aline, could prove to be clothes wearing the person.

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Perhaps the most ubiquitous Indonesian clothing—that is, apart from batik—is the men’s plaid sarong, sarung kotak-kotak. It’s a wonder that such a symbol of relaxed (rural) menswear can translate well into relaxed urban chic, but in the hands of Era Soekamto, who brought out my favorite look of the day, that was the case. The plaid cloth was a jacket, blouse, shift, and swimwear cover up, in an abbreviated style which featured long, disheveled hair, headband and accessories ala the ‘70s. And after armies of stilettos and towering platform heels, flat heeled boots and shoes paired with this collection feel like fresh air and terra firma, lending a convincing note to the brand Urban Crew. Kudos for the organizers for appropriately placing this show  at the end of a long day.

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