“Only great minds can afford simple style.” That exact quote came to me upon recognizing Auguste Soesastro‘s designs. I still remember his show during the Jakarta Fashion Week 2013, last November for his spring/summer collection 2013, with water as the whole inspiration for his collection. The whole scenery above the ground upon seeing the sea, covered in a nautical mood.
During the Indonesia Fashion Week 2013, it was the same concern and always be the major concern of Auguste through Kraton- his luxury/high end non made-to-measure ready-to-wear collection. In the past 6 months, two of the cities that he called home were immersed in water: a hurricane in New York and the recent floods in Jakarta. We can no longer deny the impact of modern civilization on the environment. Kraton brings this idea into more simplified way: reduce by the use of only the best available, no excess production and avoid wastage. The color palettes for this collection are contrasts of the cold climate neutrals: black, navy, indigo, taupe and grey; versus burnt orange, fuchsia, magenta and fire red. A juxtaposition between the nature and the chemical, humility and vanity, consciousness versus desires.
His signature cutting stays, as I would call it, “Auguste’s perfection”: loosely fitted with a clean look, sleek with a swift movement, since he wants every piece of his collection to ensure one’s comfort.
Auguste worked with suiting wool, double-faced cashmeres, and flannels. The fuchsia dress (see picture above) took a skilled design team 60 hours to assemble this very simple-looking garment. He’s not only working with winter fabrics. Regional textiles are also incorporated into the collection. The hand-woven textiles from Ayotupas, West Timor were displayed in its natural state as shawls and also transformed into tops. Textiles were woven from organic cotton and dyed exclusively with natural dyes. This is part of Kraton’s mission to promote the Indonesian culture.
(images: Indonesia Fashion Week and Albertus Dendy)