Beauty Insider: Elisa Simonpietri, PhD & Her Opinion on Skincare & Biotherm

It’s always satisfying when you walk out of a chat knowing that you’ve just gained new knowledge. It’s exactly how I felt the day that I met Elisa Simonpietri, PhD during a Biotherm event unveiling their new brand identity and communication.

Elisa Simonpietri is a Doctor of Pharmacy specializing in Cosmetology, and has been Biotherm International Director of Scientific Communications since September last year. Prior to joining the Biotherm team, she was with the L’Oreal Group since 2005, started at Research and Development Laboratories of L’Oreal and the Lancôme International Scientific Department.

One of her roles she holds in the current position is to provide the media with scientific expertise around the Labs innovations. During the event, we listened to her presentation about Biotherm’s new approach and scientific research. She also explained to us the ingredients of each products that we’re expecting to see this year. Though still with lots of scientific facts, she made us the layman understand well everything that she’s trying to explain there.

What did we talked about? Of course everything revolving skincare and Biotherm. Let’s see what she got to say about the issues that I asked her that afternoon.

On the issue of exfoliation agent being harmful to the skin and why do we need them?

Biotherm develops products containing exfoliating agents. There are two types of exfoliator: first is manually done, and second is chemical exfoliator agent.

What Biotherm is using the chemical exfoliator agent is a key derivative of Acid Salicylic, a gentle chemical. It delivers goods result to improve skin luminosity and radiance. For manual exfoliator, Biotherm uses dry algae and also small particles that are developed in Biotherm’s lab from synthetic origin. Biotherm is also using AHA with gentle exfoliation power. The formulation has undergone a lot of process. If, during the protocol of test, self assessment and clinical study, any ingredients is found to be problematic in terms of tolerance and safety, the product will be reformulated. For example, not all AHA is safe, it could be too strong for the skin. The way chemical agents is synthesized also affects the manner of the element.

Why is exfoliator agent so important? Regeneration of skin cells and exfoliation is the key way to stimulate the proliferation of new cells. There are other actions to boost skin cells regeneration, but exfoliation is one way to stimulate skin’s renewal process into a more luminous and radiant skin.

The level of exfoliating agent differs from one product to the next. For instance, if a product’s focus is more to the luminosity of the skin than this product will have higher concentration of exfoliating agent, whereas if the focus is more on hydration it will have less.

On the goodness of underwater micro-organism and all type of water sources for our skin and why Biotherm choose to explore these territories

Biotherm is working on all kinds of water sources and underwater micro-organism, though their products’ main strength is derived from the spring water. This is the main difference from other brands’ products whose ingredients are derived from sources on land. Only a few beauty companies have ventured to the aquatic universe

You can cultivate algae, seaweed and the likes, but generally, you can’t cultivate the micro-organism, plankton or any other similar deepwater life forms easily. To unleash the benefits of these life forms, key expertise is crucial, and that is what Biotherm has under their belt, as they have been exploring it for 23 years and have successfully devised a way to reproduce these organisms. Within the underwater universe, 80% of the life forms have to face so many different environment, some need to thrive in total darkness deep in the see, in high pressure, or without oxygen – they are counting on the ability to adapt and survice.

In its more recent studies, Biotherm concluded that the composition of sugar in our skin is very important in the functioning process  of our skin. With age, the ability to synthesize sugar is decreasing. Biotherm found that the much-needed sugar elements can be derived from these particular aquatic organisms. In the topic of boosting skin’s ability to recover its youth, this finding is indeed very interesting.

On the trend of brightening and lightening products that has been shifted from being Asia oriented to the Western World

Brightening and lightening products are trends coming from Asia, and have become the new wave in Europe. Brightening skincare is one of the key trends and evolution in women beauty. The importance of skin complexion, texture, brightening, luminosity and radiance have become major concerns, especially when tied to skin aging problems.

According to Biotherm’s studies, one of the first signs of aging is loss of luminosity, followed by wrinkle appearance. The changing world’s climate also bring about problems of environmental impact and UV rays. Women now are very aware of these problems, and thus they are looking for products to boost radiance, complexion and reduce pigmentation, by way of brightening and lightening agents. If previously these agents were mainly popular in Asia, now the rest of the world follows suit to have these products to be part of their skincare regimen.


On the issue of Skin Fatigue; What is it and how Biotherm addresses this

Fatigueness is a new global concern of skin problem. Complexion is one part of skin fatigue, but it is also signified by wrinkles and changes of skin’s texture and firmness. Skin fatigue is a more comprehensive problem than just complexion. Biotherm Skin Ergetic answers to this set of problems.

Biotherm Skin Ergetic is dedicated to those looking for the solution before the early signs of aging and wrinkles occur. It’s a preliminary step to a full range of anti-aging skincare.

On how to address two different problems on the skin and mixing serums

Whether you can mix different serums or not, it actually depends on the texture.

Mixing or layering two serums together is generally not recommended, as each will not work at its intended optimum efficacy. A better way is to alternate different serums usage between day and night. From a scientific point of view, it is better to prioritize the most important concern of the skin and to follow a regular beauty routine focusing to address that main concern. You don’t want to send too many different messages to the skin. It’s better to send one messages at a time, you don’t want to mix it, therefore using different products day and night its better.

You can, however, use a serum and moisturizer, one after another, even if they come from a different skincare line. For example:  you can use Skin Energetic serum and Aquasource moisturizer together. Hydrating product is usually fine to be layered with serum, because hydration is a basic need to skin.

Don’t you find our interview here with Dr. Elisa Simonpietri here is enlightening? Thank you Dr. Simonpietri for sharing your knowledge with us! 

This sharing session is just the tip of the iceberg for Biotherm, knowing their established expertise on spring water, we should have no doubt that they would achieve some success in exploring the benefits of deepwater life forms. It would be really interesting to see how the future on what the aquatic organisms nature can help with our skin. All we need is someone to open this territory and wait for it to unveil the goodness it has for our skin.