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JFW 2012 Day 6: Mazda's Young Vibrant Designers

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Since its first year, PT Mazda Motor Indonesia (MMI) has been giving tremendous support to Jakarta Fashion Week. As part of this partnership, Mazda and Jakarta Fashion Week combined their spirits and created a regular show in JFW: Young Vibrant Designers.

After previously launching young designers such as Stella Rissa, Mel Ahyar, and Steven Huang and propelling their career to great heights, this year, Mazda and the Jakarta Fashion Council selected Kleting Titis Wigati, Danny Satriadi, and Imelda Kartini to represent Mazda.

We’ve talked to JFW’s Creative Director Diaz Parzada a while ago, and as per the conversation, this year Mazda challenged the three designers to interpret the spirit of ‘Kodo’ (movement) in Mazda’s cars’ designs.

Kleting’s collection from KLE, which was inspired by the small but lively city car Mazda2, came out first. It was so entertaining to see Kleting representing the fast, vibrant city life with easygoing and colorful pieces. Big city life can be dark and stressful—I’m sure I don’t need to tell you that, Jakartans!—but KLE’s collection definitely celebrated city life from the positive, cheery side.

The silhouettes were firmly sporty. Sport jacket, shorts, shirts, drawstring parachute pants, loose shirts, shirtdresses, and ultimately, sneakers were what it was all about. Yet, Kleting also subtly inserted feminine touches, such as peplums, large skirts, and printed scarves.

Everything was wearable, straightforward, non-pretentious, and fun-loving, just like the KLE we’ve always known and loved. And the color palette! My, my, my, Kleting was definitely having fun as she went all out with the vibrant color blocking, from lime green to shocking pink to bright fuchsia.

The presentation was just as young and free as the collection itself. The models ditched the usual stiff walks and just swayed without rules. They played with their hair, turned their heads to the audience left and right, laughed, twirled, made faces, and basically just having a good time.

If Kleting’s collection was a burst of neon rainbow, Danny Satriadi only featured one color—nude. It was a precise decision, because his complicated and painstaking haute couture designs, made to match the spirit of the sport coupe Mazda MX5, did not need much other color accents.

Through his presentation, Danny Satriadi seemed to be giving us the ancient aura of old European buildings, but with modern application. Also, both old European buildings and Danny’s epic dresses possess the quality of feminine grace, but also undeniable elements of masculinity. And just like the historical buildings, his pieces were also designed with much thought and high craftsmanship.

Indeed, Danny Satriadi—who is dubbed ‘a socialite darling’ for being favored by many Indonesian celebrities and socialites—is known for his edgy, masculine/feminine contradiction, often resulted in absolute sexiness, including in this collection. We saw dainty flower embroideries and appliqués with metal belt. Elegant evening gowns with raw metallic accessories. Delicate feathers and tulle with dominatrix-esque bustier. Therefore, the masculine/feminine combination was quite formulaic, but still very intriguing.

Danny Satriadi’s last piece.

Usually always heavy and big on the size and details of her gowns, Imelda Kartini is also known for her uber-femininity, so I expected her collection, which captured the luxury and grace of Mazda8, to give us lighter and more delicate feel that Danny’s. But surprise, surprise, I found most of her pieces (and her presentation) to be actually darker.

Gray palette dominated this Baroque-style collection, even up to the models’ hair, resulting in cold, statuesque looks.

Imelda Kartini’s collection was not solely about voluminous dresses, but also balanced by shorter and slimmer pieces. Still, every single of them was dramatic and fantastical, with meticulous details. She volumized her dresses not with just with the usual tulles or drapes, but also wire skeletons that created a crumpled paper effect, emphasizing the Baroque style.

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