At a glance, you would think that Julien Macdonald’s inspiration for his Spring 2012 collection was badass, rock-and-roll ladies with the slicked back hair, blacked-out Porsche sunglasses, soldier hats, and gladiator shoes.
Yet, Macdonald told Vogue that he was actually inspired by super yachts on summer holidays. “They’re so glossy and modern – it’s really an ideal dream to own one, isn’t it,” he said. Macdonald translated this by dressing the models with elements of yachts such as ultra-sleek laser-cut leathers and metallic belts. He also combined his signature knitwear with technical innovation, by presenting a new plasticised wool-type.
And where was Macdonald going to take them on their shiny ship? “I wanted to take them on a bit of a tour of Asia,” explained Macdonald.
So, mixed into the modernity were Chinese prints—
—um, hold it right there.
Although medias everywhere said that Macdonald’s patterns were fish and dragon prints from the East Asia, we Indonesians know very well that it was not all of them, because some were indeed Megamendung batik prints.
Julian mentioned the East Asia—particularly Japan and China—because Megamendung batik pattern does has some Chinese influences. Sunan Gunung Jati of Cirebon married a Chinese royal named Ong Tie, who brought Chinese ceramics to Cirebon, and so the assimilation patterns grew—one of them was the Megamendung motif.
As for the silhouettes, they were razor-sharp like origami, especially shown on the tuxedos and vests.
The dresses were mostly solid blacks, whites, and khakis, with pops of yellow and blue. But at the end, came out a series of astonishing short dresses and long gowns with intricate dragon embroideries and subtle beading, all on a sheer tulle.