This year I got the chance to go to every show that Biyan made, from his main label Biyan, (X)S.M.L and lastly Studio 133 which celebrated its 25th anniversary. Biyan started the Studio 133 25 years ago on his studio in Surabaya. The label which was established on 1985 because a demand was made by Pasaraya for him to make something more ready to wear but still wit that luxe and elegant touch. Biyan named it Studio 133 because that was the address number of his studio at that time.
Biyan said that we should never forget our traditional heritage that’s why you will always see Biyan collection started from the legacy of our traditional heritage and culture and in this particular collection of Studio 133, he add a pop touch to it so it’s more acceptable for the modern market. Because whether we like it or not, we can’t take tradition just as it is but we can bring it with us to the future with a more forward thinking ideas.
The show for Studio 133 was held on the 24 November 2010 at Dharmawangsa Hotel carrying the theme of ‘Kolase Keanggunan‘. The collection presented a collage from different motif as a reference ranging from the traditional ones like floral batik, geometric batik and ikat and mix it with a modern one such as polka dots, monochrome geometric, painted checks and also a more subtle one such as oriental floral. This different patterns were combined with a variety of textiles and cuts that make them more wearable on their own or with each other.
Studio 133 collection did not only mix different of patterns together but also different fabrics. What I can’t get enough is the beautiful silhouette created by the crepe de chine and the colour palette created through ombre tye dye. What’s refreshing was chiffon used as a bottoms with different shapes. Light materials that were chosen truly brings both the carefree attitude but still appropriate and neat at the same time because a degree of elegance the print brought. Colourful matte beading and chunky accessories completed the collection with festivity.
Although modern seemed to be where Studio 133 was heading but there was still kebaya modern to be seen on the runway since it is after all the label’s signature. Made from organza with embroidery detailing, it’s lightweight and you can wear it as an outerwear to resemble coat or jacket. Another signature is a jelaba which was reconstructed with different detailing and colour variants. The result is a chic maxi dress-like piece with protruding neckline.
But for me personally, what I can’t forget is how the jelaba was mixed with a cotton lace mini dress/tunic top with a sash on the waist.
Lastly, bravo for Biyan! It has been quite a year for you and I couldn’t wait for next year where the cycle begins again where he previewed every single one collection from his different labels.Here are more photos from the show.