ESMOD a fashion design school that is the branch of the famous school of the same name in Paris presented 12 alumnus collection to participate in this year’s JFW.
Through this fashion show they wanted to show of how diverse the graduates designs have evolved to, because ESMOD support the freedom of expression and creativity. They also wanted to show that the ESMOD has produced high quality graduates who will enrich the fashion industry in Indonesia.
There are 12 graduates showing their designs that afternoon, they are Anna Schmidt, Shanaz Soraya, Yogie Pratama Wijaya, Marlina Candi, Sarah Beatrice, Indriyani Juwono, Dayu Fridayanti, Dian Suryani, Evelyn Fransiska and Devi Natalia, Tasya Ascobat and Richard Tene which closed the show brilliantly.
Many of the collections in this show really gave me a fresh air, it will need many separate posts to explain about the designers one by one. But in a nutshell, although they differ in style, they showed a class of their own.
There were some designers that opted to go for a ready to wear adding that extra touches to their collection to make it unique such as Anna Schmidt. Her collection has a really clean look and cool crips feeling to it by using a light material which looked simple on the outskirt but actually the detail given need a special pattern making. Shahnaz Soraya through her brand Nes embraces the real feel to femininity by opting for two piece with a skirt and a dress, but the structure and detail finishing of the pieces gave a strong sense of power and resilience. Sarah Beatrice collection although have unusual cut to it but was balanced with the soft colour palette that she chose. There were two sides of the story for each piece that she created to depict the inspiration ‘Love Affair Part 1′ like a dress with a short front but full length at the back or a loose dress that have a sexy neckline. Whereas Marlina Candi followed the current trend of turning batik into an everyday wear by instilling an edgy but girly touch to it.
Anna Schmidt (1st Row), Nes by Shahnaz Soraya (2nd Row) and Marlina Candi (3rd Row)
There were also those collections that I could love if they can be simplified a little bit or lose a detail or two. Sometimes, less is more. For instance at the Yogie Pratama Wijaya’s Burmese Retreat you’ll see the beautiful colourful floral dresses with such a magnificent cut but the glitter strips used on them just really turned me off. Whereas Dayu Fridayani translataion of the Dutch Vrouwtjes which tried to depict housewives style during 18th century in the Netherland had details which combined with the whole part of the collection just made it real heavy. For instance the accordion neck addition on one of the top. As for the creation by Syndicate by Evelyn Fransiska and Devi Natalia I feel that it was too primal and ethnic for my taste.
Yogie Pratama Wijaya and Dayu Fridani
Dian Suryani with her Anti Matter collection was on my neutral list because it had a unique touch to it, but some pieces were just not applicable and I couldn’t help but wondering on how to wear them. Maybe I came to the show with a mindset it’s either wearable or not wearable for me, but when the show opened with Anna Schmidt’s collection it instantly turned into ‘something that I can wear’ mode.
Indriyani Juwono, Tasya Ascobat and Richard Tene went with a class of their own with a grand touch at every piece and it is leaning toward party and wedding dresses.