The Concept:
After seasons where more scrubbed, virgnal pure complexion stood at the fore, what looks new for naturalness now is a distinctly constructed, considered forming of the face. In terms of effect, Think “surgery” without the “plastic”, but with regards to technique this is sculpting, highlighting and contouring at its most advanced.
Quotes:
Charlotte Tilbury “Highlighting and contouring is seriously back – it’s all about those old Eighties techniques and tricks that makeup artists used before retouching..I’m doing a lot of triangular shapes to contour and thinking about contrasts between matte and shimmer and light versus dark,”
Val Garland “We don’t live in a photoshop world so we need to use technique to get there: the more blending you can do on contours the less literally Eighties they’ll be. Use brushes, and don’t buy cheap, buy well.”
Chloe
Charlote Tilbury “It’s early ’80s Brooke Shields, Christie Brinkley and early Eighties album covers…a really tonal palette: gold, bronze and beiges for contouring, it’s a sweep across the eye…it’s healthy, she’s pumped..”
Products
Eyes:
Eye Pencil in Coffee + Ebony “applied to the top lashlines and buffed out past the outer corners of the eyes towards the temples”
Eye Shadows in Swiss Chocolate + Mystery “to really pull out the lower lashlines and the lids, heavily blending them towards the temples and through the hairline”
Eye Brows in Fling
Plushblack Plush Lash Mascara
Skin:
Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation
Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder “to the high planes and under the eyes, for brightness”
Eyeshadow in Omega “to contour the nose”
Sculpting Powder in Shadester and Sculpt Iridescent Powder/Loose in Silver Dusk
Lips:
Lip Conditioner
Allesandro Dell’ Acqua
Charlotte Tilbury “Seventies safari colours..it’s that sort of YSL ’70s gold and bronze and contour, contour, contour!”
Products
Skin:
Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation “taken in a lighter tone in the centre of the face to accentuate contouring”
Mineralize Skinfinish Natural in Dark “to set the contour”
Eyes + Cheeks:
Cream Colour Base in Brown + Paint Sticks in Deep Brown + Black Black “a really strong rusty brown to contour over and under the eye, blended out to the temples, and wrapping down in a harsh angle under the cheekbones”
Dazzle Lash Mascara in Star Brunette “only to the roots..not too glam”
Lips:
Lip Pencil in Hodgepodge “it’s a really precise lip..really full and sensuous in safari brown”
Fluidline in Rich Ground
Eyeshadow in Amber Lights “for a shiny copper center to the mouth”
Anne Valerie Hash
Alex Box “It’s Baroque Bowie…picking up on the fabrics in the collection…just as the clothes reveal and conceal the body as it moves, so does the makeup”
Products
Eyes:
Eyeshadow in Amber Lights
Powder Blush in Buff “to contour the crease and lower lashline to the eye”
Reflects Glitter in Antique Gold “inner corners…C shape”
Pigment in Tan “in a C shape to define the outer corners of the eyes”
Skin:
Powder Blush in Buff “contouring the cheekbones and temples”
Beauty Powder in Drizzle Gold “to highlight the tops of the cheekbones”
Lip:
Lip Conditioner
Eye Shadow in Amber Lights “to pick up the highlight on the cupids bow”
